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Sharp
dressed man
Tips
from the pros on choosing the right tuxedo for your groom
By
Ajla Grozdanic
for The Brooklyn
Bride
You thought you had it all: the love of your life, a rock
that’s weighing heavily on your left hand, and your dream
dress.
But there’s one problem: The man who’s soon to be
your husband hasn’t worn a tux since his prom. And how’s
a gal supposed to know what’s in style when it comes
to “The March of the Penguins”?
Fret not. The Brooklyn Bride has consulted the experts —
read three local formalwear store owners — for tips that
will turn your clueless sweetheart into a tuxedo-wearing Prince
Charming. In fact, we’ve discovered that choosing the
right tux isn’t exactly brain surgery, and it’s
not nearly as complicated as, say, picking out your dress.
For one thing, there aren’t that many options.
“There’s not much you can do to a suit,” said
Ziad Elal, 31, owner of Jay Mills, a two-floor formalwear
shop in East Flatbush. He explained that the tuxedo look consists
of basic elements that don’t vary a great deal from season
to season.
Lesson 1: Size him up
The best tuxedo is one that fits well. Local pros, like Russell
Zerov, owner of Elegant International — a Cobble Hill
shop specializing in tuxedo rentals — will recommend
different styles based on the groom’s body size and shape.
“If they ask for suggestions, we have to evaluate them,”
said Zerov, who opened his store in 1989.
The general consensus is that, if your sweetie is tall and
thin, he can wear pretty much anything, from the contemporary
single-breasted, three- or four-button jacket to the classic
double-breasted, broad-shouldered look.
If he’s tall but on the huskier side, however, he should
steer clear of double-breasted jackets and pleated shirts
because they add bulk. And skip the cummerbund, since it highlights
the gut. Instead, your honey should opt for a single-breasted,
shawl-collar jacket — the rounded lapel has a slimming
effect — and a vest, which conceals the imperfections.
Pay special attention to sizing around the neck, if your man
has that football-player build. You want to be the one to
take his breath away, not his tie.
Short honeys should stick to single-breasted jackets with
a low-button stance for an elongating effect. The slim ones
should opt for a two- or three-button jacket and ask the tailor
for extra padding if they want to look broader. The ones with
a more generous shape should go for a one- or two-button jacket
with a shawl collar and skip the broad-shouldered European
styles.
Not all men follow these rules, however. Most of Elal’s
customers break them.
“They say shorter guys or guys with big bodies want one-
or two-button suits, but I have not seen that,” Elal
said. “The three-button has been the popular standard
for years now.”
Lesson 2: Something borrowed
You won’t be the only one wearing something borrowed
on your wedding day. He will too. Most formal attire experts
recommend renting a tuxedo instead of buying, unless the groom
plans on wearing it at least four times a year.
“If someone wears a tuxedo two or three times a year,
it makes no sense to buy it,” Zerov said. “People
gain weight, lose weight.”
Simon Mord, 31, manager and owner of Tuxedos and Limos for
U, agrees that renting is the better option.
“Average people don’t wear tuxes often,” he
said. “And if they buy tuxedos, they might grow out of
them, or the styles may change and then they are stuck with
them.”
And there are plenty of rentals to choose from at Mord’s
warehouse-like store, at Avenue U and Bedford Avenue, with
20,000-square-feet of tuxedos.
Follow these tips from the Black Tie Bureau of the International
Formalwear Association (yes, this association really exists)
for a satisfying rental:
• Consult a formalwear specialist for measurements,
fitting and advice on the latest trends and accessories.
• Is your man a traditionally classic type or a hip trendsetter?
Look through catalogues and fashion magazines for a look that
fits him best.
• Choose your accessories, such as tie and vest or cummerbund,
wisely. His colors should not clash with yours and the groomsmen
should be coordinated with your bridesmaids.
• And let’s not forget those spotlessly shiny patent-leather
shoes. Rented or purchased, they are a must.
The trendier the look he’s going for, the earlier you
need to rent. The IFA also suggests paying for the rental
in advance, so that the groom will avoid any unforeseen delays
on your big day.
“They should rent three to four months in advance,”
recommends Mord.
But if you are crunched for time, Zerov offers same-day service,
although your choices might be limited. In that case, your
best bet is what he calls the “Tuxedo 101.” This
classic fit, with satin lapels on the one-button, single-breasted
jacket, is also one of the most popular tuxes, Zerov said.
It’s the best option for customers who aren’t too
picky, he said.
Lesson 3: Know the lingo
Get yourself familiar with tuxedo jargon, so that you can
talk the talk with your formalwear specialist. When it comes
to jackets, the most common is single-breasted, which has
a symmetrical front, buttons in the center and can be worn
buttoned or unbuttoned. The double-breasted style is an overlapping
coat that has two rows of buttons and fastens to the side,
instead of down the center.
In addition to a regular tuxedo jacket, there’s the less
common tailcoat, usually worn for very formal occasions. The
cutaway, or morning coat, which is short in the front and
long in the back, is suitable for daytime weddings. A Mandarin
jacket has a standup style collar without lapels.
Your sweetie will have to choose the perfect lapel that suits
his body, style and the occasion. Peak lapel is V-shaped and
it points upwards; the notch lapel has a triangular indentation
and the shawl collar is rounded and has a long, continuous
lapel line.
When it comes to shirts, the most popular formal choice has
a wing-tip collar, a standup collar with two small downward
pointing triangular tips. The Mandarin is a standup collar
without the points. The lay-down formal shirt has a full collar
like a dress shirt.
“Wing-tip shirts are most suitable for weddings,”
said Mord. “The regular shirt collar is for black-tie
dinners.”
Cuffs come in two categories, French and convertible. French
cuffs are folded over, while the convertible ones are not.
Both are closed with cufflinks.
Lesson 4: Fashion trends
If you want him to be fashionable, keep these trends in mind.
Basically, tails are out and so are top hats, although some
people still ask for them, say the three local formalwear
store owners. Double-breasted jackets are a fashion don’t.
Single-breasted ones with notch lapels are the way to go;
the three-button notch is the most popular this season. If
you want him to look relatively hip, have him opt for a necktie,
instead of the somewhat outdated bowtie.
But don’t hesitate to ask the pros. Zerov said that he
only makes suggestions and never pushes his customers in any
direction, because he wants them to be happy with their choice.
“Very often, they come in clueless and they leave satisfied,”
said Zerov.
Help your sweetie out, he needs you.
“Women are in charge,” said Elal, explaining that
he mostly deals with women when it comes to picking out the
tuxedo. “Men just say, ‘Let’s get married.’”.
Elegant International
Svc. Is located at 316 Court St. between Degraw and Sacket
streets in Cobble Hill. For more information, call (718) 222-0707.
Jay Mills is located at 868 Flatbush Ave. between Martense
Street and Church Avenue in East Flatbush. For more information,
visit www.jaymills.com
or call (718) 284-6672.
Tuxedos and Limos for U is located at 2501 Ave. U at Bedford
Ave. in Sheepshead Bay. For more information, call (718) 891-7050..
March
25,
2006 edition |. Read
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